PETG vs ABS comes down to one question: will the part get hot, or will you struggle to print it? Choose PETG if you print on an open-frame printer, want parts that survive knocks, and the part will stay below roughly 70°C. Choose ABS if the part will sit somewhere hotter, or you want to sand, glue or vapour-smooth it, and you have an enclosure.
That is the short answer. The rest of this guide explains why, and where each material surprises people.
What is the difference between PETG and ABS?
PETG is a glycol-modified version of the plastic used in drink bottles. It prints at moderate temperatures, sticks well between layers and is tough rather than brittle. ABS is the older engineering plastic found in LEGO bricks and car interior trim. It handles more heat and machines nicely, but it shrinks as it cools, which is why it warps and splits if the air around the print is not controlled.
In practice: PETG is the forgiving one. ABS is the one that rewards a properly set-up printer.
PETG vs ABS strength: which is stronger?
For most printed parts, PETG feels tougher. It bends before it breaks and its layers bond well, so a dropped PETG bracket usually survives. ABS is stiffer and can crack along layer lines if it cooled unevenly during printing.
Strength on paper matters less than strength as printed. A badly warped ABS part with weak layers is weaker than a clean PETG part. If your printer has no enclosure, PETG will usually give you the stronger real-world result.
PETG vs ABS heat resistance: which handles heat better?
ABS, by a clear margin. Typical softening points are in the region of 70–80°C for PETG and around 95–105°C for ABS. Always check the supplier’s data for the exact roll you buy.
That gap matters in South Africa more than in cooler climates. A closed car parked in summer sun can get hot enough to soften PETG, and a part mounted next to a motor, heater element or power supply can quietly creep out of shape. If a part lives in heat, ABS or ASA is the safer choice.
Which is easier to print?
PETG, without question.
| PETG | ABS | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical nozzle temperature | 230–250°C | 235–260°C |
| Typical bed temperature | 70–85°C | 90–110°C |
| Enclosure needed? | No | Strongly recommended |
| Warping | Low | High |
| Stringing | Moderate, needs tuning | Low |
| Fumes | Mild | Noticeable, ventilate |
These are typical ranges. Each brand and colour differs slightly, so start from the settings on the product page and adjust.
PETG’s main quirks are stringing and sticking too well to smooth build plates. A thin layer of glue stick on the plate works as a release agent as well as an adhesive. ABS’s quirks are warping, drafts and the smell.
Do PETG and ABS need to be dried?
Both absorb moisture from the air, and wet filament shows up as popping, bubbling and rough surfaces. PETG is the more sensitive of the two in everyday use. If you print only occasionally and a roll has been open for a few weeks, dry it first. Our humidity storage guide covers keeping rolls dry, and our PLA stringing article explains how wet filament makes the problem worse: why your PLA is stringing.
Is ABS safe to print at home?
ABS releases fumes when melted, including styrene, so print it in a ventilated space and do not sit next to an enclosed printer for hours. PETG is gentler in everyday use, but any melted plastic deserves decent airflow. If your printer lives in a bedroom or a small closed office, that alone is a reason to pick PETG.
Can you smooth and finish each one?
ABS dissolves in acetone, so it can be vapour-smoothed to a glossy finish and glued into joins that almost disappear. It also sands and drills cleanly. PETG does not respond to acetone and sands less cleanly, but it can be glued with suitable adhesives and takes paint reasonably well with preparation.
If you are selling cosmetic parts that need a finished look, ABS gives you more options. If the part just has to work, PETG is faster to a good result.
What do PETG and ABS cost in South Africa?
At the time of writing, our Creality CR-PETG is R295 per 1kg roll and our Creality CR-ABS is R325. Soleyin Basic PETG is also R295. Prices change with the exchange rate, so check the live category pages: CR-PETG and Creality ABS.
The R30 difference per roll is not the real cost. The real cost of ABS is failed prints on an unenclosed printer. Count your reprints before you decide it is the cheaper material.
Which should you choose?
Pick PETG when:
- You have an open-frame or lightly enclosed printer.
- The part needs impact resistance: brackets, clips, covers, tool holders, enclosures.
- You print water-contact or outdoor-shade items below about 70°C.
- You want fewer failed prints and a faster path to good parts.
Pick ABS when:
- The part will see sustained heat, above what PETG tolerates.
- You need to sand, machine, glue or vapour-smooth the finished part.
- You have an enclosed printer and good ventilation.
Pick neither when: the part sits in direct sun for years. That is a job for ASA, which has the heat resistance of ABS and is built for outdoor exposure.
How do PETG and ABS behave under constant load?
Short tests flatter both materials. What matters for brackets, hooks and clips is creep: slow deformation under a steady load, which gets worse with heat. PETG creeps sooner than ABS, especially once the part warms above room temperature. A PETG shelf bracket that holds a toolbox in winter can sag in a hot garage in January.
If a part carries weight all day, test it under that weight at the real temperature for a few hours. If it moves, step up to ABS, ASA or a nylon carbon fibre, or thicken the part and add ribs. Design changes are often cheaper than material changes.
Does print orientation change the result?
Yes, more than the material choice does. FDM parts are strongest along the printed lines and weakest between layers. Orient the part so the load runs along the lines instead of pulling layers apart. A hook printed standing up will snap at a layer line, and the same hook printed on its side will hold far more.
More walls help more than more infill. Three or four walls on a bracket give a bigger strength gain than raising infill from 20% to 60%. This applies equally to PETG and ABS.
What slicer settings differ between PETG and ABS?
- Part cooling: PETG likes moderate fan (roughly 30–60%), and ABS likes little or none. Too much fan on ABS causes warping and layer splits, and too little on PETG causes droopy overhangs.
- Speed: PETG prints well at moderate speeds. ABS tolerates speed but suffers if the chamber cools.
- Retraction: PETG strings, so tune retraction distance and temperature. ABS strings less.
- First layer: PETG needs a slightly higher nozzle gap than PLA, because squashing it too hard makes it fuse to the plate. ABS needs a hot bed and clean surface.
Start from the profile for the roll, then change one setting at a time.
What are the most common mistakes when moving from PLA?
- Printing PETG with the same low gap as PLA, then ripping the plate when the part will not release.
- Printing ABS without an enclosure and blaming the filament for warping.
- Skipping drying on a roll that has been open for weeks.
- Running ABS in a closed bedroom with no airflow.
- Judging strength on the first print instead of a loaded test.
Which should you pick for typical parts?
| Part | Better choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Tool holder, cable clip, cover | PETG | Tough, easy, cheap |
| Bracket near a motor or heater | ABS | Handles more heat |
| Enclosure for electronics | ABS or PETG | ABS for heat, PETG for easy printing |
| Part to be sanded and painted | ABS | Sands cleanly, glues well |
| Water-contact part | PETG | Resists moisture well |
| Part in direct sun for years | ASA | Built for UV and weather |
Frequently asked questions
Is PETG stronger than ABS? In most real prints on typical hobby printers, yes, because it layers well and flexes before failing. ABS can match or beat it on a properly enclosed machine.
Can I print ABS without an enclosure? You can, for small parts, but warping and layer splits are common. An enclosure or a draught-free room makes a large difference.
Which is cheaper? PETG is slightly cheaper per roll on our shelf, and usually cheaper overall once failed prints are counted.
If you are not sure which suits your printer and your part, tell us what you are printing and we will point you to the right roll from the Creality filament range.